After my week at surf camp I joined a quick 1-week tour of Nicaragua. Because it was so short it was really just a highlight of the three most significant tourist spots on the western, Pacific side of the country. We met in Granada, then went to Leon, followed by Ometepe in the south. We then spent a day travelling south into Costa Rica, where we all departed from San Jose. This was the first time Intrepid offered this tour so we were the test run to see if all the logistics worked. The intent for them was to have this as an add on that travellers can do and link up with the many other tours that start from San Jose, Costa Rica. It sort of worked though none of us were going on to further travels.
So we met up on Saturday in Granada which is one of the oldest cities in Nicaragua being founded in the 1530s by the Spanish. It lies in the middle of the country on the shores of Lake Nicaragua (the 19th largest fresh body lake in the world). It was about a 4.5 hour drive from the surf camp which was in the extreme north of the country almost at the border with Honduras.
Granada was a lovely city and we had a lot of fun. Admittedly we didn’t spend much time in the city as we did a day trip around the area on our one full day there. Before heading out of town we had a quick tour around including breakfast at a cafe and hammock cooperative which provides employment for deaf and mute people. We ordered breakfast by pointing at pictures in the menu.
Hammock cooperative providing employment to deaf and mute people
Big hammock that can hold 17 people but easily held our group of 3 Americans and 4 Canadians
Street parade celebrating Lent and the introduction of Catholicism by the Spanish
Dancers in the street parade
Cathedral of Granada
Colonial government buildings
We then headed out for the day. During the week we came up close with many volcanoes. Nicaragua is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire and has a number of very active volcanoes still which you can get close to.
Masaya volcano spewing sulphuric acid gases
Being sacrificed to the volcano gods
We visited the craft market in Masay which is the Nicaragua equivalent of Otavalo though much smaller. I wasn’t particularly in a shopping mood as I didn’t want to carry anything. I did so much shopping in Ecuador and Peru that I had to post a box weighing 6 kg home from Cusco. Since Peru post is not the most reliable I’m hoping my souvenirs show up!
We ended our first full tourist day with a lovely boat ride out amongst the 365 islands that sit in Lake Nicaragua by Granada. We were luck to be there for sunset.
The next day we travelled north back to Leon. I say back as I had to pass through here on the way to Granada. This was another lovely colonial city built by the Spanish originally in 1534. There has always been a rivalry between Leon and Granada with has been part of the cause of much of the military conflict over the last couple of centuries. Though it is now settled and the country at peace.
Leon Cathedral
Street in Leon
On arriving in Leon we headed up Telica Volcano. This is another active volcano that because of its height provides lovely views of the surrounding areas and the sunset.
Telica Volcano from the distance
Hiking up the side
The view from the top of other volcanoes in the distance
Extinct volcanoes where you can do volcano boarding (toboggan down the side on a piece of wood)
The group watching the sunset from Pride Rock – it over looked a vast plane below
Sunset over the side of the volcano
The volcano crater with gas fumes
After sunset we went to the edge of the crater where you can see the hot lava 120m below and hear the gases escaping so it sounds like jet engines revving.
The next day we headed out to the coast for a day at the beach. As Nicaragua is not really very well structured for tourists yet this journey encompassed many modes of transportation. We took a camione (a pickup truck with benches in the back) to the bus terminal, then a chicken bus (a school bus used for local intercity bus service) out to the coastal town, then a boat across the tidal rivers, followed by a horse cart out to the actual beach. The beach itself was lovely and I went for a long walk with Al (a new friend from Trenton) and only got sort of sunburned. The spot we were hanging out rented surf boards and I was tempted to give it a try again but the waves looked too big for my comfort zone.
Surviving the crazy driving of the camione.
Chicken bus
Horse cart out to the beach
The hot, dark sand beach
Requisite group shot
Boy gathering clams at low tide
The beach
Walking back across the tidal flats on the way home
After a long day of lazing around in the sun we went for pizza at the Bigfoot Hostel in Leon which was great. The hostel was previously owned by Phil who now runs Rise Up Surf (the surf camp I was at) and people at surf camp raved about the pizza there. Actually it became a running joke in the tour group because every second sentence from me started with “When I was at surf camp…”.
Pizza dinner at Bigfoot
The next day we headed back south again to Lake Nicaragua where we caught the ferry out to Ometepe Island. The island is actually formed by two volcanoes and so every time the active one erupts it changes shape. On our full day there we split up as a group. Some of us rented scooters and rode all over the island and one brave soul, Curtis, and our guide actually hiked up the tallest volcano, St Christobal from the base to 1600 m.
I opted for the scooters. It was so much fun to learn how to drive one. I’ve only ever ridden on the back. After a wobbly start I eventually got the hang of it. Now I can understand the appeal of riding a motorbike!!
The ferry to Ometepe
Ometepe Island with its two volcanoes
Learning to ride – they didn’t have a helmet small enough for me so I ended up with a bicycle helmet)
The road crosses the airport runway with St Christobal volcano reigning int he background
Unfinished church holding mass
Al, John, and me on our scooters
We finished our day of exploration by meeting the rest of the group at the cool mineral springs. It was a lovely spot to hang out for a couple of hours and wash off the road dust.
Mineral springs
The following day we loaded again onto various modes of transport for what ended up being a 12 trek south to San Jose, Costa Rica. After one last dinner together I said a sad good bye to everyone and Nicaragua as I flew home very early the next day. I had a wonderful time learning a bit more about the life, history, and culture of Nicaragua. Unfortunately I now need to obviously explore more of Central America including Guatemala, Belize, and Costa Rica (not to mention try some more surf spots!).
I was sad to leave but also excited to be coming home after 9 weeks of travel. I have had so much fun on this part of my travels but I’ve also very much missed my family, friends, and Eric. More on that and the next stage to come.