First off I want to apologize for the long periods between posts and then the flood that comes out. I’ve found the frenetic pace of this tour very exhausting mentally. I think that after 3.5 months of travel my brain has reached its maximum capacity to process new sights and experiences. In seeing and doing so many things each day, I’m totally exhausted at the end of the day. I’m very much looking forward to just resting up in December! I can’t believe that in just a week I will be back in Canada.
The last few days of our tour focussed on seeing old and new Jerusalem and going south to the Dead Sea. In our free time following the completion of the tour on Friday, Dad and I returned to the Old City to explore more extensively and thoroughly. I’ll break it up into three posts so it isn’t insanely long! So on with the show!
We started our exploration of the Old City with a panoramic view across one of the valleys from the Mount of Olives. The old city is only about 1 km in total. It is dominated by two major religious sites – Temple Mount with the Dome of the Rock mosque and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The area is divided into 4 quarters – Christian, Jewish, Muslim, and Armenian.
Old City topped by the golden dome of the Dome of the Rock mosque
Before going into the city itself we visited two place outside – the tomb of King David, the found of Jerusalem and the room where the last supper was held. Actually it was very easy, as the room of the last supper is on top of King David’s tomb.
Entrance to King David’s tomb
Women’s side of King David’s tomb
Room of the Last Supper built by the Crusaders in the 12th Century
Religious group praying loudly
We then took to the streets of the old town walking through all the quarters and visiting some of the most significant sites.
Walls of the Old City
David’s Tower at Jaffa Gate
Armenian quarter of the Old City
Souk area
Fifth station of the cross on the Via Dolorosa – the route believed by Christians to have been walked by Jesus while carrying the cross
We spent some time visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre which is a mishmash of additions that were added and renovated overtime to expand the space and allow for almost all major Christian denominations to have space to worship. The church site covers the places where Christ was crucified, where his body was washed, and the tomb where he was buried and ascended. As a result of covering all these major holy sites it is very very crowded with many tour groups and many worshipers.
Entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
A cross carried by a pilgrim along the Via Delaorsa
Mass being sung at the site of Christ’s crucifixion
Mosaic
Mosaic in the ceiling
People praying where Christ’s body was washed in preparation for burial
Christ’s tomb – not the line snaking to the right – the wait was many hours to go in so we didn’t
We also visited the Wailing or Western Wall. This 80 meter stretch of wall is the only exposed remains of the Second Temple which was destroyed by the Romans in 70 AD. It was a very surreal experience to be so close to the wall. It was definitely a place of peace and the faith of those praying was palpable.
Western (Wailing) Wall – The only remaining portion of the original Jewish temple
Men at the Western Wall – note that they get 2/3 of the space!
Woman at the Western Wall
Following our visit to the Old City we went to Bethlehem to visit the Church of the Nativity were Christ was born. Though in theory it would be a straight forward visit as the town is a very short drive from Jerusalem it wasn’t. Bethlehem is controlled by the Palestinian Authority and so our Jewish guide was not permitted to enter. She dropped us on one side and we walked through first Israeli security, then through the wall that surrounds the town, and then through Palestinian security. It felt like we were crossing international borders. On the Palestinian side we were met by a Palestinian guide who conducted us around while we were there.
Security checkpoint 1
Wall surrounding Bethlehem
Walking through security fences
The Church of the Nativity was almost dwarfed by the experience of so much security. However, it was very interesting to visit the church and to see where they believe Christ was born. The church is divided again into the major Christian denominations so the interior decoration reflects different styles and religious practices. The exterior reflects the thousands of years of evolution of the Church here.
Church of the Nativity – under restoration
Entrance gate to the church – made successively smaller by each governors of the site – Byzantine, Crusader, Orthodox etc
Original Byzantine mosaic floors
Religious icon that was kissed for blessing. Many people held shawls and paper to the icon to absorb the blessing.
The site of Christ’s birth was a small chamber under the main orthodox altar. With so many groups it was very cramped to get in and fit. The priests managing the flow had trouble making the worshipers move along.
Crush to get down into Christ’s birth site
The spot where Christ was born
Worshiper’s singing hymns in the small chamber
The main Orthodox altar
Following our visit to Bethlehem we returned to Jerusalem. It was a reversed process. We even had our passports to show that we were allowed into Israel. We were so obviously tourists though, jabbering away in English and brandishing our cameras, that they just waved us through. It gave me new appreciation for the freedom of movement we have in Canada and how easy it is to cross the border to the US.