First off sorry I’ve been awol for the past few days. I’ve been fighting a cold and it’s been all I could do to get around all the sites before collapsing into bed for sleep. I’m feeling much better now and have so much to tell you about our past few days in Dublin. So, this might take a bit as we’ve been doing lots (adding to my state of collapse at the end of the day!).
On Thursday around lunch time we arrived safely in Dublin. After taking the convenient city AirLink bus into the city centre, which only takes 30 mins, we dropped our luggage at the hotel (Charles Stewart Guesthouse) and headed out as our room wasn’t quite ready. It was a low key afternoon spent running errands like getting cold meds from a pharmacy and a local SIM card for my cell phone. Late in the afternoon we did the hop-on-hop-off bus tour in its entirety as an orientation on the things we most wanted to see in the next 2 days. Since the bus ticket was good for 2 days we made use of it for transport the next day (we actually heard the commentary for one section 3 times in the end!).
We actually very quickly figured out how to distinguish the locals from the tourists – locals walk on the left, tourists on the right and locals don’t wait for crosswalk signals to turn green. For some reason the cross walk signals take forever and aren’t synchronized with the car signals. It is helpful that on the pavement they tell you which way to look for cars (“Look right” or “Look left”) so you just look and go. Such a difference from Germany where we saw a police car pull over to give some people a warning for jaywalking when there were no cars around.
Yesterday was our first full day here and we made good use of time. Most of the primary sites are in the city centre which is compact and easy to walk around. First stop was Trinity College Dublin (founded by Queen Elizabeth I to help civilize her Irish citizens) to see the Book of Kells and the Long Room of the Old Library.
The Book of Kells was lovely to see. I have read about it in various history books and seen pictures but to see the illuminations in context was amazing. It is also accompanied by a fantastic explanation of illuminated texts. We only had to do battle with a few massive tour groups even though we were second in line for tickets in the morning! Here is a borrowed copy of an image if the Chi Ro page (we weren’t allowed to take pictures).
Chi Ro page from the Book of Kells (created around 800 AD)
We also strolled through the Long Room of the Old Library which holds a copy of every book published in Ireland and England since about 1590 (obviously not all in this room anymore!). They are currently undertaking preservation and conservation work on 90,000 items that have been damaged over the years. There were big posters explaining how it was being done. Since at one point I considered doing a Masters in archeology for artefact analysis and worked in archives I always find this information fascinating.
Long Room of the Old Library at Trinity College Dublin
Continuing on our history binge we walked down the street to the National Museum of Archeology and learned all about Irish history from pre-historic iron age through to the middle ages. I have really enjoyed reading Thomas Cahill’s “How the Irish Saved Civilization” before so it was fun to see many of the artefacts and items he mentions (though honestly I can’t remember all the details of their significance right now – I need to reread the book).
Gundestrup Cauldron (made sometime between 200 BC and 300 AD)
Well preserved body found in a bog. Note his hair is still styled nicely with tree resin based hair product.
Cross of Cong (12th century) – held a fragment of the true cross
Chalice of Ardagh (8th century)
After wandering through Temple Bar and having some lunch (sorry no pictures – it looks like downtown Halifax!) we headed to the Guinness Storehouse brewery. The storehouse is a 7 floor self-guided tour on how Guinness is brewed and how wonderful it is. Basically we paid to be advertised to! We did though get a pint on the 7th floor Gravity bar which has lovely views of the city. Can’t say I’m a fan though – I just can’t get a taste for the brew.
On our way back towards more central locations we happened across a very cute knitting store. Of course we had to go in. I was very happy that they were able to provide a few things I forgot to bring with me to finish off projects. Last night I was even able to finish a sock that has been in the works since my trip to Malta in February. It was restart since my needles were confiscated at the Malta airport (Hint to airport security – knitters only get violent when you take away their needles, especially when they have a 6 hour layover a Heathrow!). Anyway, the Constant Knitter kindly provided bamboo needles so I can now fly and knit!
Lovely shop that provided flying-safe bamboon needles!
First sock finally done!
Flying high on the success of my knitting needle find we headed off to St Patrick’s Cathedral. There is a genealogy legend floating about that there is a copy of the Moran family crest somewhere in the Cathedral. Unfortunately despite my best efforts (and asking assistance of the site attendants) I was unable to located it. It is a lovely place though. We even attended what was supposed to be Evensong (but it was said instead as the choir is on vacation!).
St Patricks (Anglican) Cathedral
Inside St Patricks
Flags above the choir stalls (note the helmets for the members of the Order of somethingorother).
And thus endeth Day 1 of our time in Dublin (hence the need to collapse!).