Knotty Ewe On the Land

There are three peninsulas the jut out the southwest tip of Ireland and are pretty centred on Killarney.   The peninsulas are the Dingle Peninsula, Iveragh Peninsula (aka Ring of Kerry), and the Beara Peninsula.  On Monday we drove around the Ring of Kerry.  I figure I have to save something for my next visit and so we didn’t do the Beara Peninsula.

We were fortunate that at some very key moments the sun made an appearance and provided lovely lighting once again for the dramatic scenery.

Following a winding little track that seemed to run along the edge of the world we made out to the very tip of the peninsula at Bolus head.  We had to go at about 15 kph to ensure we didn’t fall off the edge.  It was a tremendous view though from the top.  We only had one minor run in with a pile of rocks trying to make space for an oncoming car (a good smack to the front bumper popped it back into place though!).

By the time we made it down off the top of Bolus Head unfortunately a fever had really hit me and so we headed back to the B&B so I could sleep.  Monday was when I really started to get sick and the weekend was when it hit Mum.   Unfortunately this has set the tone for the rest of our stay in Ireland.

One of the days we were based in Killarney was intended for exploration of the area.  Unfortunately Mum wasn’t feeling very well and opted to rest.

The original plan was to do some hiking in Killarney National Park which could be accessed from the middle of the town and across the street from our B&B.  It’s actually 3 adjoining estates which were gifted to the people of Ireland and total about 1,000 acres.  Surprisingly there aren’t that many hiking trails that I could find details for online.  So I opted for the 15km loop.  It starts at Mukross House and goes around Mukross Lake.  Because there is so little forest still left in Ireland it was a treat to be buried in the green trees.  It felt very much like hiking at home!  I think it’s rather ironic that I’ve been to Killarney Park in Ireland but not yet in Canada.

In the afternoon after some rest Mum was up for going to explore the local castle.  It seems that every town and bit of space in Ireland has been claimed and stamped with authority by the building of some sort of castle or fort over the centuries.  Lovely Killarney is no different, and their version is Ross Castle.  Mum wasn’t up to climbing all the stairs in the tower so we didn’t do the tour, but it was a lovely stroll out to the spot.

Ross Castle

Afterwards were both kind of pooped so we just crashed at the B&B and vegged watching episodes of Dr. Who.

Today was our first exploration trip of County Kerry.  Our goal was to drive around the Dingle Peninsula.  This region is known for its wonderful landscapes and green beauty.

Because there was a marathon being run from Dingle, starting on the southern coast and around the very western tip, most of the main roads were closed.  This resulted in us being detoured around the exact spots we wanted to drive to for the best views and the couple of tourist attractions we wanted to see.  Unfortunately we weren’t up to running the marathon in order to get there so we weren’t able to do see what we wanted (e.g. the Gallarus Oratory).  On the flip side we took a lot of fun detours and as a result saw some amazing scenery.

I’m actually in awe at how ridiculously good my pictures are today (or at least I think so).  Since my camera is crap, this goes to show you how extraordinary the lighting and landscapes were.  I couldn’t choose!

Today we said good bye to County Clare and wished them luck at the Hurling championship on Sunday afternoon and moved south to Killarney.

In the morning we spent a bit more time wandering around Ennis as it was so lovely and we needed to run some errands (touthpaste etc).

Ennis decorated for the championships

We then hit the road.  As a mid-way stopping point just outside of Limerick we visited Bunratty Castle and Folk Park.   I actually had no idea what to expect from this but had heard it was fun from some other travellers at our B&B in Galway.  It turns out to be a 15th century castle that was restored in the 1960s.  As well, over the years they have saved many traditional dwellings from the region which were slated for destruction to form a type of traditional village (kind of like Upper Canada Village).

Bunratty Castle

Great Hall where they hold medieval banquets every night (if only I’d known!).

Solar, which was the guest parlour in effect.

This is a traditional farmers hut with the thatched roof.

Most of the buildings in the village had peat fires burning.  It has a very distinct smell and it more smolders than flames.

Peat bricks

Travellers, a traditional Irish ethnic group, used to travel around the country side in wagons.

After wandering around the park we headed for Killarney where we settled into our B&B.  The town is lovely – slightly smaller than Ennis.  However it is very well populated with tourists as it is a central location from which to explore the region – which is what we are doing for the next few days.

This morning we said good bye to beautiful County Galway and headed south to County Clare as we continued our tour of the west coast.    This was another day of beautiful views.

Our first area of exploration was The Burren which is a barren, rocky area that is dominated by thrusting headlands and barren plateaus.  The valleys and driving along the coastal road though finally showed us why it is called the emerald isle.

We stopped to visit a natural cave complex called Aillwee Caves as it was advertised as having wonderful geological formations.  Unfortunately it was very disappointing and none of my pictures turned out (not a huge loss).  Definitely not recommended.  I think the neighbouring birds of prey demonstrations with eagles, owls, and hawks would be more interesting.

The highlight of the day though was visiting the Cliffs of Moher.  The cliffs surge 120 meters out of the Atlantic Ocean.  You are able to walk all the way along the tops of the cliffs providing spectacular views.

There is a walk called the Burren Way which is a trek across the tops of the cliffs for about 20 km. It sounds demanding but would be amazing to complete!

Late this afternoon we arrived in Ennis which is a lovely town of 20,000.  It has a lovely core which is fun to wander around.  Unfortunately everything was closing by the time we go there so hopefully we will have a chance to go back in the morning before we move on.   All the store fronts and most houses are decorated with yellow and blue the colours of the County Clare hurling team which is competing in the all Ireland finals this Sunday.  Here is a link to YouTube as I can’t explain it!

In our wandering around I bought a simple silver ring.  The purpose is for it to appear as an engagement or wedding ring for when I’m in Morocco in a couple of weeks.  Apparently this is absolutely necessary to avoid being harassed by men.  So if you see it in pictures, don’t worry – you haven’t missed something!

Tonight we are staying in a bed and breakfast out side of Ennis which is also a working farm.

The view from our room of the lake with a church ruin in the background.

Our neighbours – nice clean County Clare sheep.

I need to ask our host in the morning why the sheep in County Clare are so much cleaner than the ones we saw yesterday in County Connemara.   It was probably all for the best in the end that none of these buys wanted to come home with me to be a pair of socks.

Today we drove further north through Connemara County up to the border with Mayo County to be awed by the stunning beauty of the highlands.  It was a long day of driving that was well rewarded.  It was a feast for the eyes and food for the soul to be surrounded by so much space and rugged beauty.  In the morning it was sunny but as the day progressed the clouds moved in and descended down the hills making for some very dramatic skies and lighting.

There were sheep everywhere in the fields and sometimes they came out onto the road.  They were very nice though and usually moved out of the way quickly.  They were a little skittish (and dirty) so I didn’t try and catch one as a souvenir.

We stopped to admire the Victorian Kylemore Abbey which is actually a Benedictine convent.  It was originally built in the 1860s by a tycoon for his wife and in the 1920s was purchased by an order of nuns which they ran as an international girls school up until 2010.  It’s not being redeveloped as a tourist attraction and retreat centre but still functions as a convent with nuns living in the castle.  I think it would be a spectacular spot to go to school.

Unfortunately as we left the hills the rain set in so we skipped strolling around Clifden to head back into Galway for the evening.

I have thoroughly loved driving around this county and would love to come back here for a walking holiday.  We passed many lovely inns with spectacular views which would be the perfect base to explore the hills further.

So far on our road trip we have been having a “full Irish” for breakfast every morning.  This seems to consist of fried eggs, fried tomato, their version of bacon, sausages, and pudding (a mixture of sausage meat and grains).  It can be yummy but it is really heavy and combined with all the pub food, my digestion is starting to feel like a trash compactor.  We really need to figure out how to get more fruits and vegetables since most restaurants seem to define “veg” as potatoes.

Full Irish breakfast

Today was a break for me from driving as we did a day trip out to the Aran Islands which are a grouping of three small rocky islands just out of Galway Bay.  We took a bus out to the ferry terminal which is an hour outside of Galway along the same shore road we drove yesterday.  We then took the ferry across to the biggest island, Inish Mōr, where we picked up a mini-bus tour that took us around the island.

It is another lovely place, all rock, sea, and atmosphere.  It has been inhabited  for thousands of years.  It is naturally just a big limestone rock.  The farmers had to actually make soil in order to grow anything.  It was a three year process – Year 1 they cleared the stones from the fields piling the rocks into dry stone walls and covered the exposed ground with a mixture sand and seaweed from the beach into which they were able to plant potatoes,  Year 2 was rye so they could use the stocks to make housing, and Year 3 was grains to feed livestock.  Today most of the area is used for cattle and there is still some fishing.  It is mostly tourists though as there are only 800 people who live on the big island.   The big island is only 9 miles long and 3 miles wide.

We walked up to the ruins of a 2500 year old structure that they think was a fort or ceremonial centre (meaning they have no clue what it was fore!) and it is at one of the highest points on the island.

The walk up to Dún Aonghasa

Dún Aonghasa (or Dun Angus) ruins

In this region of Ireland gaelic is still very strong.  All of the road signs and other postings are in gaelic.  I’m assuming that all the shapes for traffic signs are universal as I have no clue what they are saying!  I have figured out that “mall” means “slow” and “go mall” is “very slow” as that is what is written on the road in school zones.  Our guide today told us that kids come to the island in the summer to attend gaelic school so they learn the language and it is still used as the everyday language there.

We also stopped at the ruins of a monastery which was a famous centre of learning until it was destroyed by Cromwell in the 17th century.  Since it is still consecrated grounds the islanders have been using it as a cemetery for centuries.

Monastic ruins

Of course we took the easy way of getting around.  It is also possible to rent a bike and cycle around the island and to go in a horse cart.

Horse cart

There are actually very few thatch-roofed buildings because the insurance is very expensive and the cost of replacing the roof is very prohibitive.

Thatched cafe with tourist bicycles our front.

Of course what the islands are best known for probably are Aran sweaters.  Unfortunately we didn’t see many sheep but I did find a horse.

Aran sweaters

My new friend

Aran sweaters

Many of the sweaters that were for sale were actually locally hand knit. I’ve been inspired.   I have decided to knit a small Aran sweater for Bearic so I got some yarn and needles and no just need a pattern.

I should introduce him.  Bearic is the third party to the “we” in these current adventures.  He is my bear.  Each day he rides along on my backpack so that he can see all the wonderful sites.  He even enjoys a good meal occasionally.  He has met many very friendly people in Ireland who have asked how he is enjoying the trip!  In Germany no one really said hi to him.

Bearic at a restaurant in Dublin

Bearic at the organ recital in Hamburg at the Michel

I wanted to also let you know that my cold has cleared up and Mum is slowly making her way through it.   The sore throat and sinus congestion has passed and the mild cough (the last couple of days) is underway so I hope she will be fully mended in a couple of days and her energy fully back to normal.

Yesterday we finally arrived on the west coast of Ireland finishing the trek across the midlands from Athlone to Galway in the morning.   Instead of checking into our B&B in Galway we proceeded along the southern coast of Connemara through Spiddal along the coast and then around in a circle.

It is wild and beautiful here.  The shore line was rugged and the landscape in land was very rocky and bleak.  We’ve had quite cloudy weather which was a perfect match for the landscape.   I would love to come back and do hiking and walks along the coast and in the higher parts of the county.  I’m hopeful we will get to explore Connemara National Park a bit in a couple of days.

The shore at low tide.

There was some signs of life beyond the lichen and the rock.

Lovely purple flowers flourishing in the shelter of a dry stone wall.

Late blackberries made an excellent snack!

The worlds biggest slug – about 3 inches long.

We stopped at a pub overlooking the water and enjoyed our first fruit scones (scone with raisins) and clotted cream accompanied by an excellent pot of tea.

Fruit scones and clotted cream.

As we moved away from the shore we crossed a bleak landscape of rock and peat bogs.

We even stopped at some castle ruins.

Aughnanure Castle ruins

Of course driving all of this along twisting winding lanes was a bit nerve racking but the scenery is worth it.  I think I’m getting the hang of driving on the left.  I’m just glad I’m not trying to do this manual with my left hand!

This morning we bid our farewells to Dublin as we headed out on the driving part of our Irish adventure.  We picked up the car at the airport as that is our final end point and headed off.  I’m the designated driver and this is my first time driving on the left side of the road.  I very quickly learned it is a good thing that we have a very small car (Yaris hatchback).  As our purpose in having the car is to be able to get to remote and interesting places we are avoiding taking major highways.  Unfortunately this translates that we end up taking the winding, narrow little lanes.

First stop was Monasterboice which is the ruins of a very early monastery now picturesquely situated in a cemetery.

Monasterboice – One of the best preserved Celtic crosses

Monsterboice – monastic ruins

Next stop was Newgrange which is one of three co-located megalithic ‘passage tomb” dating from around 3200 BC.  For thousands of years is was abandoned and blended into the hill side.  Many cool things about it but two biggest for me – 1) the vaulted ceiling which is made of concentric circles of overlapping massive stones which for a domed room.  The roof supports 220,000 tonnes of earth and has not leaked in 5000 years.  I’d like to see a modern roofer beat that!  And 2) there is a window above the main door that on the winter solstice the rising sun runs along the passage and into the main chamber lighting it up for 17 minutes.  Oh also really cool was the decorations with the swirling spirals which are exactly like the ones I saw in Malta.

Boyne river passing below Newgrange

Aerial view of Newgrange (from a postcard)

Inside the tomb on the winter soltice

Newgrange passage tomb (from a postcard)

The entrance with the stone decorations with the spirals

The view from the Tomb down to the Boyne river

After Newgrange we took a very winding and often illogical route to the Hill of Tara curtesy of the GPS we got with the car.  Not sure what maps it’s using but it got us there eventually.  We used my phone initially for directions but it ate the battery too much – it will be a back up.

The Hill of Tara was very majestic and very very windy.  It is a high peak from which you can see the surrounding country.  Legend has it that when the true king of Ireland touches the stone it screams.  Didn’t do it for me.  I loved the wind and the majesty of the view.

The top of the Hill of Tara

I found sheep – but they had already been sheered

A tree where people leave offerings.

We then made a beeline for Athlone where we are staying tonight in a B&B.  This is pretty much the halfway point between Dublin and Galway.  It is a pretty town and we very much enjoyed our dinner of lovely fresh cod (sorry I was so hungry I forgot to take a picture!).

Today was another full and fun day.  We have been blessed by sunny relatively warm weather so far in Ireland.  There was some rain last night but we were already cosy in the hotel watching Dr Who.  I am hopeful it will continue as we head out on the driving portion of our trip tomorrow (wish me luck in driving on the left!).

First stop was more religion at Christ Church Cathedral which has been around in one for or another for about 1000 years.  Another beautiful church.  I’m feeling like I want to go to England now with all these gothic stone churches.

Christ Church Cathedral

Inside Christ Church Cathedral

Down in the crypt there was a display of costumes from The Tudors which apparently was filmed partially in Christ Church Cathedral.  I like the purple dress and think this should be the next fashion trend (minus any corsets).

Costumes from The Tudors

One of the many people buried in the Cathedral is Strongbow, the Anglo-Norman leader who conquered Dublin in 1170.  For centuries agreements, contracts, and rents were agreed to by shaking hands over the tomb.  The original was destroyed somewhere around 1350 and it was so important for commerce in the city that they created a new one.  The little one beside I’ve heard is either a fragment of the original tomb or represents his son whom he killed in battle for displaying cowardice.  I like the first explanation best.

Tomb of Strongbow

We then went next door to the old Civic Hall of the Cathedral to see Dublinia which is an interactive museum explaining the history of Dublin since the Vikings established the first settlement here in 841 AD up through the middle ages.  It was a lot of fun and I learned a lot.  Sorry no pictures were allowed and the website looks cheesy but believe me it is fun for us history geeks!

We then continued our education at the Dublin Castle and Chester Beatty Library.  The 12th Century Norman castle has been pretty much replaced by later buildings and it is mostly used for state occasions so we skipped it and went straight to the Chester Beatty Library.  It is a fantastic collection of early books from around the world from Egyptian papyrus scrolls, illuminated manuscripts, ancient copies of the Qu’ran and Chinese and Japanese paintings.  We also saw part of his extensive painting collection.  It is probably one of the best setup exhibits I’ve ever seen.  His collection is massive so they only show a small part of it.  Each item has an explanation and helps develop what they are trying to show and explain about the history of these artefacts.  I would need a few more visits to really grasp it all.  It was definitely a highlight for me in Dublin.

After pummelling our brains today we finished off with our first spot of tea in the castle tea room which was a perfect way to end the afternoon!